In Indonesia, wax designs are repeatedly stamped onto the fabric with intricate metal stamps made of copper called Tjaps or Caps pronounced "chops" but you don't need anything so fancy to start. We stamped this fabric with a squiggly potato masher photo. Pro-Tip: You can make fun stamps out of just about anything that will take the heat of the wax: the cut ends of some veggies like celery bundles and bell peppers can make fun prints.
Look around and experiment. Remember: When applying wax, no matter what method you are using, regulate the temperature so that it penetrates the fabric; not so cool that it just turns yellowish and sits on top, and not so hot that all your lines spread out too much. The wax should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side. Flip fabric over and apply wax anywhere it has not. Thin layers of very hot wax will often allow some dye to stain the fabric under the wax, whereas a thicker buildup will keep the wax off.
Step 6: Tub Dye the fabric , first using the lightest or brightest color that will be on the piece and will mix well with successive colors, for example yellow; then the next dye bath could be turquoise, which would actually mix with the yellow to dye the fabric green in all the un-waxed areas.
Remember, after Soda Ash has been added to the dyebath, don't leave your waxed fabric in for more than 30 minutes more, as soda ash eats away the wax eventually, exposing areas to unwanted dye. Step 7: Rinse and gently hand wash the fabric in Synthrapol and allow to dry. Use lukewarm water so as not to melt your wax! Step 8: Repeat steps above for each color you plan for your batik, waxing areas after each dyebath that you want to remain that most recent color, and re-waxing any areas that look eroded from the Soda Ash.
Tub dye your darkest areas last. Boil the wax out. Choose a pot to become your official wax pot that will comfortably hold your fabric and fill with water and a dash of Synthrapol, or other liquid detergent, to get the wax and any excess dye away from the fabric. Bring this to a simmer and add fabric. Stir the fabric around in the boiling water keeping it submerged. After a few minutes the wax will melt out of the fabric and float to the top. When the wax seems completely removed from the fabric, remove from heat and allow the water to cool.
Be sure that the fabric sits on the bottom of the pan, avoiding the floating wax residue. You can weigh it down with rocks or something heavy. Contributors use terms in the way they are most often talked about in the scope of their educational experiences. Tim is a high school teacher from Omaha, NE.
His teaching and writing focus on the development of creativity, problem-solving, and higher-order thinking skills. Instant Download You must be logged-in in order to download this resource. Login Create Account Email Address. Instant Download Great! Click to download your resource. Though it is a lot of work, the batik experience will be memorable for your students and something you will enjoy as a teacher as well. Gather Your Materials and Set Up Your Workspaces Although there is a lot to prep, once things are set up, the process runs fairly smoothly.
Drawing Space I like having students draw right at their seats. I recommend laying down plastic or a drop cloth to combat drips. Here, plastic or a drop cloth is vital. Finishing Space Finally, you will need a larger area where students can use an iron to remove wax and put finishing touches on their projects.
Cut Fabric and Draw Cut pieces of muslin to size. Complete the Crackle Effect After the second layer of wax has hardened and cooled, you can begin to work on the crackle effect. Remove Wax Removing the wax is simple, but time-consuming. Enjoy the Finished Piece! Have you ever tried batik? The highest quality cloth producing the finest batik is known as primisima quality, followed by prima quality, biru blue quality, and merah red quality which is the coarsest.
Batik tulis is the oldest form of batik making in Indonesia, where the wax is written or drawn tulis onto a length of fabric. The fabric is first thoroughly washed, then kneaded and dried. Oil and a paste made from rice or cassava is then applied to stop the wax penetrating the fibers of the fabric.
The process of pattern-making involves several stages. First, mencanting , the design phase where wax designs are applied to the fabric, usually using a traditional tool called a canting.
It is an instrument consisting of a wooden handle and a small metal cup filled with melted wax. The wax is heated and drawn or dripped out of the canting spout onto the fabric. Fill a pot large enough to hold your fabric with water and a few drops of Synthrapol. Once the water begins to boil, add in your fabric and weigh it down with a rock to keep the wax which will be floating at the top from re-bonding with the fabric.
After a few minutes, the wax will pull out of the fabric. After all the wax appears to be out of the fabric, allow the pot to cool completely, and peel the wax layer from the top of the pot. Iron the wax out. Place the fabric between two sheets of absorbent paper and run the iron over the sandwiched fabric. The wax can leave behind a residue, so use care to ensure the wax is removed.
Periodically changing out the papers can aid in wax removal. Wash and dry your fabric. Throw your fabric into the washing machine with Synthrapol one last time to ensure all of the dyes have been released. Dry your fabric either on a line, or in the dryer. All batiked! Method 2. Spread the plastic on your work surface. Lay your pre-washed and pre-dyed fabric over the overlapped sheets of plastic wrap.
Create designs using the washable resist medium. As with traditional batiking, you may use the single or double-spouted tjanting tool to create thin lines for designs.
Use paint brushes to cover larger areas with the medium. Allow the medium to dry for approximately 30 minutes, though exact dry time depends on how thickly the medium was applied.
Consider using stamps dipped in the medium to create a repeat pattern. You can use a stencil by placing it down on the fabric and dabbing the medium around it with a foam brush. Mix up your liquid dye. Follow the instructions on the package to mix up the dye. If you are using a liquid dye, adjusting the water-to-dye ratio can create softer add more water or more vivid colors add more dye.
Apply the dye. Dyes can be dribbled, painted, sprayed, or dabbed on. Consider mixing two or more colors together to create color variations. Cover the fabric with plastic wrap. Once you have finished with your dye application, cover the fabric with plastic wrap and seal the edges. Nuke your fabric. Place paper towels on the bottom of the microwave oven to protect against spills. Place your plastic-covered fabric in the microwave oven you may need to fold the fabric and cook on high for 2 minutes.
Remove the fabric from the microwave. Using thick rubber gloves, carefully remove the fabric from the microwave oven. The fabric will be hot, so use caution! Allow the fabric to cool for a few minutes before removing the plastic. Rinse your fabric under cool water until it runs clear.
After you've removed the initial dye, wash the fabric in warm water with a mild detergent, and rinse. Dry your fabric. Method 3. Prewash your silk. Add a drop or two of liquid dish soap to a tub or bucket of water. Rinse and dry your fabric. If you wish to sketch out a design instead of painting it freehand, this would be done after ironing. Stretch your silk. Apply safety pins connected to rubber bands around the edges of your silk--every 4—6 inches Lay your silk over the frame and begin to apply push pins to the frame.
The rubber bands will hook around push pins set into the frame to create a taut trampoline.
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